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Friday, 13 November 2015

Where Life Ebbs Awa

Byline: Deepa Philipps
India

Climate change is as real as it gets on the Ghoramara Island which is slowly eroding into the depths of the Bay of Bengal, reports Deepa Philip


Water Everywhere: Childhood friends Das and Dolui say climate in Ghoramara is getting worse with each passing year

 “When the ice on the mountains melt, the sea level rises and causes flooding,” says Firoz all of twelve years. For this young inhabitant of Ghoramara Island, located in the Bay of Bengal, climate change is not just a lesson in geography but an everyday reality. “One night my mother woke me up hurriedly saying that our house was crumbling,” he recollects with a toothy grin, his innocence evidently untouched by misery.

Once sprawling across 8.51 sq km, Ghoramara, part of Hooghly river's estuary, has now been reduced to 4.45 sq km. “Continual rise in sea level due to climate change, will continue to create havoc in the estuary causing the island to erode away,” notes Tuhin Ghosh, faculty in the School of Oceanographic Studies in Jadavpur University, West Bengal, who has been studying the effects of climate change on the Sundarbans since 1993.

Climate change and the associated sea level rise is seen to be a major threat to low-lying areas like Ghoramara. One among the 54 islands of the Sundarbans -- a vast mangrove delta shared by India and Bangladesh -- Ghoramara has lost 75 percent of landmass just over 31 years (1968-1999). And it continues to recede, forcing villagers like Firoz and his family to rebuild homes further inland.

Among themselves, the villagers float various theories regarding why they are losing their land to the waters. “The extension of the Haldia port by the [West Bengal] government forces the water towards the island,” says Vishnu Poda Das, a secondary school teacher in Ghoramara. His words have an element of truth.

In the 1970s, the state government had drawn up the project despite warnings of increased frequency and intensity of cyclones and tidal floods. The proposed seven guide walls to contain ecological damages to surrounding areas have also not been constructed. This has diverted the flow of water towards Ghoramara that lies 12 km away from the port.

“High flow of water hits the island and takes away the soil, loosening it from beneath, as a result the land slowly gives way to the sea,” says Vishnu Poda Routh, a native, pointing toward the latest prey of climate change -- a road leading to his village. The land, wet and clayey, clings to his bare feet as his eyes recollect the moment when the brick road was lapped up by the waters.

A gaping hole in the landscape with bits of red brick strewn all around is all that remains of the road. The island is closing in on its inhabitants. And they have nowhere to go.

Villagers lose their ancestral land, houses, cattle and even their loved ones to the waters that lash the island. Take the case of Shaumoresh Das who owned 30 acres of ancestral land and now barely has one left. A few kilometers away from Das's property, Routh is joined by his wife and adolescent son for a herculean task: their ancestral house that weathered the elements for over a hundred years has succumbed to the waters.

...... ( the story continues in the next post)

This story was sourced through the Voices2Paris UNDP storytelling contest on climate change and developed thanks to John Upton, @ClimateCentral

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